Written by Carrie Culliton

I have seen and tried a variety of methods of trimming.  Some trim with the rabbit in their lap, some stand with the rabbit on a stand that looks a lot like one of those carpet covered cat stands.  Some trim the back first, some start with the belly. Everyone’s system is a little different.  I explain here what I have found works best for me. 

To begin you will need in hands reach:

·        A good quality pair of scissors (I use hair styling scissors)

·        A blow-dryer with a COOL SETTING

·        A pair of nail clippers (I use ones from the pet store for dogs)

·        Sure Clot or some other Styptic Powder.

·        Optional/Highly Recommended:  Aesculap (The Red) Clippers

·        Three receptacles for separating first (prime), second, and third grade fiber.  Pop up laundry baskets work very well.

·        A roll of small clear plastic garbage bags for storing the fiber, and a Sharpie to label it with.

·        A comfortable (low set) chair and something to put your feet up on, or a trimming stand.

·        A tube of Neosporin or Triple Antibiotic Ointment.

·        Your supply of IVARMEC and a clean insulin needle

Note:  If a rabbit starts nibbling at you or your clothes, it is not necessarily being mean.  It is just returning the favor of grooming to you, an accepted herd member!  I always sit with a folded sheet or blanket in my lap to catch hair, support the rabbit, and protect my skin from grooming activity.  I have found that a small surface like your lap or a grooming table is much easier to use than a bigger area.  On a big table, the rabbits are often trying to go off and investigate everything.

After much trial and error, I have found that it works best if I do the belly, vent, and chest areas first.  This way, I am doing the hardest part when I and the rabbit are the most fresh and patient.  Plus, I save the best wool for last which is very satisfying to harvest.   I hold the rabbit with its hind end at my knees, and hold its body around its chest over  its forelegs with my non dominant hand or in the crook of my elbow (see picture below).   I gently support the back of the rabbit while I turn it over on the top of my thighs.  I have heard of rabbits breaking their own backs from being allowed to flail around.  Also they can easily break a foot etc.  if they land on a hard surface. You have to hold them firmly but not tightly.  They feel safer and if your actions are firm and sure and kind.  I have found that they stay much calmer if you have a hand on them all the time, plus it is safer.

 Especially for beginners it is important to remember to angle the scissor blades as you cut. You can move the hair out of the way, but never pull the hair as you may lift the skin and cut the skin instead.  I position myself so I can stretch the skin wherever I am trimming.  It has many benefits.  You will not cut the skin, and it is easier to cut the hair, since the dense fibers are spread out more.  It is always better to go slowly and cut small sections at a time, especially at first.  If you try to cut a lot of hair at once, you won’t be able to tell the difference between skin and hair.  You could cause a nasty cut.  Also, angling the scissors and stretching the skin help prevent second cuts.  Second cuts occur when a little of the fiber left on the bunny finds it’s way into your scissors again when you are making the next cut.  When this occurs, blow them off before putting the fiber in its bag.  You will get better at this with practice.

Secure ways to hold your rabbit for shearing.

I.            Get any hay/vegetable matter out of the coat.   I begin by blowing out the coat with a blow-dryer on its COOL AIR setting.  Some rabbits are a little jumpy the first time, but soon learn to enjoy it.  I start the dryer away from them to get them used to the noise first, and then start at the back end with the air.  This is the easiest way I’ve found to get any hay/vegetable matter out of the coat. 

II.                 The Belly.  When you’ve finished the vent area, you are ready to move on to the belly.  For does, it is essential to gently rub all over the belly with your finger and find each and every teat one at a time. Carefully cut a circle of hair around each nipple bigger than a half dollar.  Don’t count on the teats being balanced, regularly placed, of any exact number, etc.  Every doe is different!  Also, you will often find a couple of them high up between the front legs. The bucks aren’t quite as worrisome in this way.  Their teats are very small usually, and are easy to miss if you angle your scissors properly.  That said, it is still best to do this same thing with them too at first, until you get a feel for your individual rabbits.

III.               The Front Legs and Dewlap Area.  The most difficult area for me is around the front legs and dewlap area.  Once again start at the feet and work your way down to achieve a good view, and trim only the longer parts of the hairs on the bottom of the feet.  I pinch the hair on the bottom of the foot between my index and middle finger, and cut off whatever extends from there. Then start on the tops of the feet once again watching for toes.  There sometimes can be matting in the front armpits, especially if the rabbit is already shedding, has a cottony fiber texture (found more often in lower percent German bucks) or has had a mite problem.  Pointed scissors can be used to sometimes slide past a few hairs at a time in order to get the mat loose.  It is not advisable to use clippers on mats, as they can easily gouge the skin.

                For the dewlap (chest) area it is very important to really stretch the skin, as it tends to wrinkle and buckle here.  It also tends to have dense growth.  I do the lower area from the chin with the animal on its back.  This area is tough to do whether the rabbit is on its back or belly. Watch carefully for nipples in the lower part of this area. (On the German breeders web sites I’ve seen, they do it with the animal on its feet, lift its front end up, and just shear under its chin.)

V.                 Topside.  At this point, I turn the rabbit over, and start with the base of the neck.  The fiber is very fine here and can mat. If this is the case, pulling the skin tight, and sliding the scissors under a small area at a time clears the area quickly.  For the cheeks of the rabbit (males tend to have more hair here) just pinch the hair along the length of the cheek between your two forefingers.  Cover the face with your hand to protect the eye and cut. I will trim the ear fringe at this point if it is long enough to be a nuisance, but that is a personal choice.  I then stretch the shoulder skin under the cheek, and carefully begin trimming the hair off from the top down and in to where I left off from the belly.

VI.              Now is the best part.  I make a part along the spine, stretch the skin, and start cutting small sections close to the skin.  The best prime fiber is usually found on the back and sides (excellent quality rabbits will have it practically everywhere).  If you cut against or across the direction of hair growth, you will get a closer cut. As you make your way down the hindquarters you will find this to be the highest density area.  Pulling the skin tight, using pointed scissors and trimming a little at a time help to get the scissors in, and close and easy cuts. It is easiest to cut across the hair growth here. Sometimes you have to kind of wiggle the scissors just to get them to slide between the hairs.  On higher-percent, well cared for Germans, this is the crimpiest prime fiber.  On some (often lower percent) hybrids this fiber doesn’t reach prime length by 90 days, and the coat will already be shedding.  On what would otherwise be an excellent animal…not receiving good nutrition, and clean conditions, this fiber may not reach full length, and if it does may be yellow and dingy from rubbing up against dirty or rusty cage wire.

VII.            Trim the Nails.  Last, I trim the nails.  White rabbit’s nails are easier to trim than colored rabbits.  It is easy to see the pink quick, and avoid cutting it.  I trim at an angle as the directions on the clippers package says to do for dogs.   I was taught to hold the nail covering the length of the quick, and then clip the tip off from there.  A cut quick can bleed heavily.  Pressing Styptic Powder (also available at your local pet store) into the cut end of the nail and holding it for a minute will quickly stop any bleeding.  If the nails are not trimmed regularly the quick will grow unnaturally long making them even more difficult to care for, and most importantly putting the rabbit at risk for infection as it is more likely to break or tear long nails on the cage floor.  I trim the nails last because I’d rather shear the rabbit when its nails are not razor sharp like they will be right after I cut them.   Some people avoid this issue by using a drummel tool to grind down the nails.  Here is where I turn the rabbit over and give the IVARMEC shot.   I do this every three months when each rabbit is sheared.  Thus the herd avoids mite infestation.  Ask your vet what he/she recommends for  mite control.

VIII.      Keeping Warm.  When returning your rabbit to it's cage, you must insure that it doesn't catch a chill.   I have learned from many IAGARB members about  many ingenious techniques to protect trimmed bunnies from chill.  You can hang a heat lamp over the cage. The rabbit can sit close or far away in order to adjust it's comfort level.   You can use polar fleece to make a little sweater for the rabbit to wear for a week or so until its hair grows in enough to insulate well again.  Bucks tend to remove these sweaters as quickly as possible.  Many Angora owners will throw extra hay in the cage, and/or put insulating material over the top of the cage.  I have found that a red heat lamp (these are often much less expensive from a home supply store than farm supply) works very well.  It depends on how cold it is where you live, and the time of year.  In the dead of winter, I will bring them in the house for a few days after a shearing.  Give them a nice treat at the end of their trim, and a big handful of hay.

IX.              Last but not Least, Record the Rabbits Wool Weight.  None of the weighed fiber may be wet, damp, or have any foreign matter in it. Gross Weight is the sum total of Prime + Second  + Third grade fiber.  Adjusted Weight is the total of Prime fiber + (.75 x Second grade fiber) + (.25 x Third Grade fiber).  For yearly totals, times the GW or the AW by 4.  Most breeders use grams, not ounces.  Grams are more exact.  If you are used to thinking in ounces 1oz = 28.35gs.

·        Prime grade Angora is at least 2.5 in. long, clean, and has no webbing or matting.  This fiber sheds very little from yarn.  The fiber is measured by the length of the crimpy undercoat, not the thicker, longer guard hairs.

·        Second grade Angora is 1 to 2.5 in. long, clean, and has no mats.  This fiber is good for felting, and fulling (knitting oversized and then intentionally shrinking and felting the article).  It can be spun into a bulkier yarn, but will tend to shed.  It is great for adding noils and bumps to novelty yarn, and to make batting

·        Third grade Angora is shorter than 1in., can be stained, and may be webbed or matted.  Many breeders throw this fiber out. 

                 See...About Angora Fiber page for photo examples.

In Between Shearings...  IAGARB advises that at half way between shearings the rabbit gets a trim on its face and its vent area.  I trim the nails at this time as well.  I also trim out any mats that may have begun to form at the back of the neck or under the chin (the chin area is more likely to be a problem with  bucks, very dense rabbits, or rabbits that drink from crocks).  This is a good time to check for dandruff at the base of the neck which is a sign of a mite infestation. Some rabbits grow more hair in the vent area, and need to be checked again three weeks before shearing to make sure their vent area is still clean.  Long wool around the vent holds moisture and bacteria and can quickly lead to infection.